Hence this treatise. Some attention must now be paid to the mutes. FRONT RAIL: The wooden piece of the key frame which carries the front pins and the thumper felt. These are commonplace, and can leak a surprising amount of wind. Rip this felt out, and remove all traces of it with sparing applications of hot water, being careful not to let the water soak into the reed cells. I call it "bedding felt" for want of a better term. If you are fortunate to have reeds in category 1, what is necessary is to remove *all* the loose dirt, but otherwise leave the reeds alone. The exceptions are the tiniest reeds in the treble octaves: the smallest dust mote can render one of these mute. At the same time, this characteristic of being tiny means they are the most delicate and most easily put out of order. But I won't go into that in this "generic" discussion. will do: artist's board works well. Aims of the Reed Organ Society To bring together through publications, correspondence and meetings all persons seriously interested in all types of free reed instruments. Built in 1868 and enlarged in 1886, it is one of the city's few surviving Second Empire factory buildings. In the USA, rubber-cloth is available from Organ Supply Industries, POBox 1165, Erie PA 16512. Here youâll see that they generally fall into 13 different categories: Lap Organ They subsequently purchased the school building and an adjacent school bus garage. If the sharps must be re-stained or re-painted, now is the time to do it. Drop the keys onto their frame in order, and secure with the catch rail (just a few screws for now). Resist the impulse to oil them, as this invariably only works for a while. Note especially which strips of rubber-cloth overlap which others: this will give you a clue as to the order these parts were wrapped in. In good light, you can see where the glue remains because it is slick-surfaced. It is important to find a felt for this service that is close to the same thickness as the original. An entire treatise could. Whatever is used, it is *IMPERATIVE* to rinse away all traces of it. Who it was to first conceptualize the process of joining "things" by applying Archimedes' principles has not been recorded, but the process was certainly well known by the beginning of the 16th Century, if not before. Re-install the completed action into the organ, and go have a nice cuppa (or a glass of beer), and congratulate yourself on a job well done! Possibly, you'll need nothing! Some stickers were graphited, but most were simply polished, and finest (0000) steel wool does a nice job of cleaning and repolishing these. A few "dings" here and there attest to the instrument's age. Once you have this, the rest of the material can be taken off willy-nilly. On the other hand, old screws were far more carefully crafted. *Don't* use sheet-rock screws, or those blankety-blank-blank phillips-head things. Be proud to show your friends what a neat job you did, and how much it looks like the original. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. If they are truly of ebony, the 0000 steel wool works well. Hold the reed by its butt and tap the tip of it on a hard surface with the reed tongue down: this action will cause the tongue to move away from the frame and loosen any specks lodged near the rivet. Lift the tip of each spring and place it *alongside* of its valve, resting on the soundboard. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. Assuming you removed the stop rail earlier, you will now see the keys. In the latter case, replace them for sure! Most often, this is soot, especially if the organ spent much of its life in any part of the world which used coal for heating purposes. Cut holes in the old reservoir covering and reach inside. Make a note on paper somewhere of the *exact* relationship of the "legs" of the bearing (usually these are "short" and "long") with respect to the position of the bent wire. If you are looking for service in the bay area for an electronic organ (one that has a cord that plugs into the wall outlet) contact Rod Camp in Livermore . Don't need it so selling it here. And that is the topic of Part 14, forthcoming... Wit the keyboard clean and in place on the action, measure the drop of the two keys at the extreme ends of the keyboard. Leave the hinge on the mute, taking out screws of the leaf that is on the cell block. "Good shape" means that the felt is entire, without moth-larvae infestation, and the leather facing is similarly intact and not rotten or hardened from being wet. Save a vial-full if you must... IVORY: The material derived from the tusk of an elephant which was once universally used to cover the naturals of keyboards of all types. This is the shallow box on which everything you have exposed sits. Whatever your choice, you will apply the glue first to the fretwork, (usually just around the edges) then (after it dries at least to "tacky" and you have stretched the new material in place) to the back side of the work so that it soaks through the fabric and joins the glue on the wood below. 2. Steps 1 through 4 should be done before continuing with: 5. Moderate skill with tools. Old pyralin can burn almost explosively if handled in the wrong way, so wherever "caution" is mentioned as work progresses, take heed! This treatise is intended for those who are tempted to fix up "Aunt Maude's old pump organ"that has languished in the attic since Maude went to her reward. Next, apply glue to the end of the exhauster cover, and pull the cloth up into position, leaving the ends to "flop around": the correct position of the cloth allows space for the rib to lie flat on the inside when the exhauster is closed. care to preserve any paper label that may be present with date, serial number or whatever! Each key gets the following attention, step-wise: 1. Also check a key near the middle: whatever it is, the drop should be the same from end to end. Some experimentation may be necessary to get it all right! Replacing the felt pieces (where the actuating levers ride) completes the task. essential. In any event, taken them all. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". This done, inspect the hinges of reservoir and exhausters: ofttimes these are in fine shape, but. Wiggle these a bit to be sure they are well "dug in". Every screw has three basic parts: the head, the shank, and the threads. It is always applied in one piece, unlike ivory. If you luck out on this, cleaning is all that's required. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. A reed pipe (also referred to as a lingual pipe) is an organ pipe that is sounded by a vibrating brass strip known as a reed.Air under pressure (referred to as wind) is directed towards the reed, which vibrates at a specific pitch.This is in contrast to flue pipes, which contain no moving parts and produce sound solely through the vibration of air molecules. The piece of metal is called a reed. As you can see from the impression taken by the old leather, the objective is to cover the windways, with a "little extra". But first, just clean it up with a damp rag, getting all accumulated dirt out of the way. A pair of tweezers, or a sharply-hooked piece of wire may be necessary. Anything you plan to do to the organ's case should be undertaken next. It must be smooth! If not already done, apply the outside valves and re-attach the foundation board to the reservoir. If this is not the case with the one you are working on, return to this section at the appropriate time. Affix this to each *end* of the reservoir; a scrap of wood nailed with a *small* nail, and resting on the divider, is sufficient. If you get in a jam, there are lots of aficiandos "out there" who will be happy to assist: don't hesitate to track them down and pick their brains! If your organ is the type with mutes which are easily removed (metal hinges), you set the mutes aside earlier.
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